Working with a Patternmaker

The Handover

Providing clear and concise information is vital. A collection of sketches/working drawings/references images/reference fit garments are important tools for visual communication.

Here I cover some of the points that come up in a handover that can save you time when supplied prior to our consultation.

Sample size

What is the size of the body that will fit your sample?

This must be established before any work by a pattern maker can commence. If you are a new brand and are trying to work out what this is, I recommend going on an apparel website that aligns with your brand and looking at the size guide.

For grading purposes, it is best to go somewhere in the middle. E.g. if your size range is 6, 8, 10, 12, 14 the base ‘Sample size’ could be size 10.

You may also decide to have Small, Medium, Large sizing for less fitted garments.

Style numbers / names

These are important as a reference for yourself and the patternmaker and will be useful to you in organisation as your Business grows. Brands might have a different suffix for tops, pants, dresses etc.

Fabric Factors

When handing over your style to a Pattern Maker, the fabric being used in a style is very important.

Feel: The feel and handle of the cloth can determine the fit as well as the type of finishes used. This is important information for the seam allowances the Pattern Maker applies.

Fabric width is also required as some styles will need added design lines to fit the pattern into the width.

Patterns: Stripes and cloth patterns - Ask yourself ‘Will this affect the design?’.

Lining: Is the garment lined?

Fusing: Facings, collars, plackets, flaps and hems are usually fused with a fusing that supports the fabric in that area. Take a look inside your more tailored pieces to get an idea.

Basic Logistics

One of the common questions a pattern maker asks a designer is - How do you get the garment on?

The garment might need a button and loop fastening at the back neck for the head to be able to fit through.

The waist might not fit over the bust without a zip or an elastic section.

Other points that come up in a spec handover:

Darts: A fitted garment in most non-stretch h fabrics will require some form of bust dart and waist

Shaping: Has this been included in the design? Could they be put into pleats or gathers instead?

Hem and seam finishes: Unfortunately cost plays a big part in this or will it elevate your design?

Trims: What size? The size of the button on the front of a garment determines the wrap and is something the Pattern maker must know before starting.

Shoulders: Is a pad required to give a garment the desired silhouette.